OPEN                      CLOSE                      Spa Pump Troubleshooting

First of all, please realize that most damage that occurs to hot tub spas is caused by improper winterization. When it comes time to open up your spa in the Spring, this is when these problems will become evident. While it is strongly recommended to have a pool or spa professional close your spa, many homeowners do successfully tackle the job of spa opening themselves. It is much less risky ! The instructions below assume that your spa has been closed either professionally, or by you - following the proper winterization procedure.

Hot Tub Spa Opening Instructions:

# 1 - Remove the winter spa cover.

Remove the air pillow (if any) and deflate it. For inground spas, remove and drain any water tubes as well. Clean and fold and store away. If you do not store your winter cover indoors, and you keep it outside or in a shed, then you do not have to worry about getting the cover particularly spotlessly clean. If you do keep it in the garage or basement, you may want to clean it to a greater extent.

# 2 - Remove the hard thermal cover.

Take a look inside the spa. Does everything seem OK ? Some water or dirt can be expected. Hopefully, it is not half full of water. If it is, then put your submersible spa draining pump into the tub and pump out all the remaining water. Inspect the shell for cracks or splits. If there was water in the tub over the winter - and it froze - there is a chance that it could have caused serious damage to the spa shell. If you do notice any cracks or splits in the spa shell, we suggest contacting a local spa professional to check it out for you before you go any further. Remove any rubber plugs that may have been installed in the jets at closing time as well. If your spa shell appears OK, then move on to the next step.

# 3 - Clean the spa shell & filter.

It is recommended to use an acrylic cleaner to clean your spa shell - such as NOVUS, SPRAY AWAY, or CLEAN AND BRITE - do not use soap based cleaners like GLASS PLUS, FANTASTIC, SCRUBBING BUBBLES, etc. These cleaners contain harsh abrasives that might scratch the acrylic spa shell as well the fact that they will leave a soap residue on the spa walls. When you refill the spa, you stand a chance of getting bubbly, soapy water ! Spray cleaner on the spa shell walls, seats and floor and then sponge-clean the entire surface. Dirty water will accumulate in the footwell of the spa. This is OK. Keep your hose and your submersible pump handy. When the dirty water fills up the footwell, simply drop your submersible pump in, and plug it in, and pump out that water. Continue until the spa is very clean. Clean your spa filter cartridge as well. Use the special SPA FILTER CLEANER to do this. Do not use a soap based cleaner on the filter. For more tips on hot tub spa filters click here.

# 4 - Wax spa shell.

It is recommended to use an acrylic wax such as SPA BRITE, NOVUS, HI LITE, etc - do not use any type of CAR WAX or FURNITURE WAX. Using the wrong wax could cause troubles with your spa shell finish as well as cause problems with your water chemistry. Applying spa shell wax with a soft cotton T-shirt works best. Buff to a nice shine.

# 5 - Clean your hard thermal spa cover.

Covers get a lot of abuse and most people do not care for them adequately. Then they wonder why their cover only last for 2-3 years ! A properly cared for spa cover should last 5-7 years - even in outdoor conditions. Clean cover vinyl with any of the spa cleaners listed above. If you do not have any of those cleaners, you can use almost any type of cleaner for spa covers. Make sure you clean the underneath side of the cover as well.

Once cover is clean of most of the dirt and grime, then you need to protect it by applying a cover protectant such as "the SPA COVER STUFF". When properly applied, these products will significantly increase the life of your spa cover jacket. It is not recommended to use ARMOR ALL as that product will prematurely dry out and age spa cover vinyl jackets. If your spa cover seems very heavy, the foams may have absorbed some water.

If your cover has a zipper around the outside of the cover jacket, unzip it and remove the foams. Let them air out for a day or so. This will allow them to dry out. If your cover vinyl jacket or foam cores smell musty or like mildew, a quick spray with LYSOL brand disinfectant will stop the odor. Please note that the construction of many spa covers do not allow you to remove the foams, so you may not be able to do this with all covers!  Some cover foams are covered with plastic as well. If the plastic is heat-sealed around the foam core, then don't unwrap it!  You will break the seal.  However, if the foams are waterlogged, even under the plastic, then you really can't hurt matters by unwrapping them and letting them air out.

After airing out, you may want to re-wrap the foams in the plastic. If you choose to do this, make sure that the seam-side is pointed UP, away from the water surface. Use DUCT TAPE to tape the plastic shut. Re-insert the foams into the vinyl jacket and zip it up.

# 6 - Check out Spa Pack.

Now it is time to turn your attention towards the Spa Pack Equipment. If the spa was closed properly or professionally, there should be a number of fittings in your spa pack that have been left unscrewed or open. You want to make sure these are all re-connected and tightened before you attempt to fill the spa with water.

Also make sure any DRAIN PLUGS that were removed are properly re-inserted. Visually inspect the spa pump, filter container, valves and any plumbing pipes you can easily see in and around the equipment area. Does everything look OK? Do you see any obvious cracks or splits ? The most common problems encountered at opening time are cracks in the wet end of the spa pump or filter container. These cracks are caused by water freezing inside the components and then expanding and then cracking. Sometimes these are evident before you fill the spa with water, sometimes they will not show up until the system is full and pressurized. If you see any obvious cracks or other problems with the equipment, then we suggest contacting a local spa professional to check it out for you.

If all looks OK, then simply tighten all quick disconnect fittings that may have been unscrewed. Check the front and top of the pump - in and out of the filter - in and out of the heater - and check to see that the air blower is still connected to its pipe as well. Make sure any drain valves are closed. Make sure that any SLICE VALVES are in the OPEN, or UP position to ensure adequate water flow to the system. If you have an external gas heater, make sure the gas is properly connected and that any drain plugs or petcocks are properly seated and installed correctly.

IF YOU SMELL GAS WHEN YOU TURN ON THE GAS FOR THE HEATER, IMMEDIATELY TURN THE GAS OFF AND CONTACT YOUR GAS COMPANY OR A LOCAL SPA PROFESSIONAL. IF THERE IS ANYTHING ABOUT THE GAS HEATER THAT YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND - STOP - AND CALL YOUR GAS COMPANY OR A LOCAL SPA PROFESSIONAL. DO NOT PLAY AROUND WITH GAS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#7 - Fill the spa.

Take a deep breath..aaahhhhhh.....and start to fill the spa. Put a hose inside the tub and turn your water on. This is the time when you should be the most attentive to this whole process (especially if your spa or any of the equipment are indoors and are in any area where a small flood could cause a problem!). As the tub starts to fill up - and the water gets up to various levels in the spa, the jet piping will slowly start to fill with water and the water will start to reach each piece of equipment in your equipment pack. THIS IS WHERE YOU WILL MOST PROBABLY SEE A FEW SMALL LEAKS !!!

Keep an eye on everything as tub is filling. If you see any leak (or flood) anywhere, turn off the water until you have located and repaired the leak. The most common leak areas are around the pump and at all quick disconnect fittings by the spa pack. These drips or leaks can usually be fixed by tightening the fittings better.

Sometimes you may need a new gasket or o-ring to stop the leak. In any event, make sure all leaks and drips are FIXED before you continue to fill the tub.

#8- Power up spa.

Assuming that the filling procedure went well, you are now ready to power the tub up, and hopefully it will work!  Make sure the spa pack area is dry (and that you are not standing in any puddles of water!) when you first power up the tub. Make sure the spa heater thermostat is turned ALL THE WAY DOWN, or to the OFF position before you turn on the tub.

Go turn on the circuit breaker that controls the electric power to the tub. Go back to the spa pack and check the GFCI to make sure it TESTS and RESETS. Not all spa packs have a built in GFCI, but most of them do - and this is a very important safety device !!! You want to make sure that the GFCI and/or the main house CIRCUIT BREAKER that controls the electric to the spa are functioning properly. If the GFCI and/or BREAKER works, proceed to the next step.  To purchase a spa GFCI...click here.

#9- Start pushing buttons!

See if the spa pump goes from high to low speed. Does the air blower come on and off ? The light ? The booster pump (if you have one) ? If all things seem to be working well, then turn the heater on and turn up the thermostat.

DO NOT TURN THE HEATER ON UNTIL YOU ARE 100% SURE YOU HAVE WATER FLOW THRU YOUR PIPES !!!!! YOU COULD BURN OUT YOUR HEATER IF YOU TURN IT ON BEFORE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE WATER FLOW.

If you are getting good flow through the jets, then turn on the heater and heat the tub to the temperature you desire. If you are not getting good flow thru your jets, or the pump does not seem to be running well - or not priming - you could have a number of different problems.

For the solutions to various service problems,  SPA PACK TROUBLESHOOTING for more details.

The one VERY COMMON problem that many people have at their spa opening is that the pipes become air bound and you get what's called an "air lock" in your system that causes the jets to appear not to work well (or at all). Your symptoms will be that the pump goes on and off OK, but no water (or very little water) is coming out of the jets.

What is happening? Why, oh why is this happening? Make it work, please make it work! This is how an air lock can happen...If you are filling the tub up fairly rapidly, air can get trapped in the pipes that go to the suction fittings and the jets. The water level raises up past the openings in the spa. The air becomes trapped (locked) in the pipes. Then when you go to start up the spa pump, it tries to suck in water, but only air is in the pipes. The pump cannot PRIME itself at that point. So it just runs, but does not pump any water. The way to fix this is to loosen the quick disconnect fitting in front of the pump. This will allow some air to get in and will break the "air lock" seal that has developed. You should hear a hissssss noise and then see some water start to come out of the pump fitting. Once you see the water start to come out, simply re-tighten the fitting. Turn the pump on. It will surge for a few seconds, but then it should pick up the prime and start to pump properly. If it does not, you should repeat this procedure again. If it still does not work, you could have some other problems. At that point we would suggest contacting a local spa professional to check it out for you.

#10- Adjust water chemistry.

Once the tub is filled, running, and heating - then you will have to set up the water chemistry.

#11- Enjoy!

Once the tub is chemically adjusted and hot, jump right in!

WARNING: It is important to effectively winterize the Spa to avoid water leakage problems or surface damage. Never turn off the pump before the closing; you can however shut off the water heater.

 

	Remove cartridge(s) (ie. filter) from skimmer along with all other accessories.
	Clean cartridges with cartridge cleaner before storing them for the winter.
	Empty Spa :

- Activate the low-speed pump and turn off water heater thermostat.

- Put garden hose on drain valve designed for this purpose;

- To accelerate the process, close the valve on the pump return line.

- When the water level is very low, turn off the motor and empty the rest with a small

   bailing bucket;

- If there is no drain valve on the motor, use a submersible pump.

	Disconnect pump, blower and ozonator and store indoors.
	Disconnect light (complete niche).
	Empty the pipes with help of a « SHOP-VAC» vacuum and put non-toxic anti-free on plumbing should water remain.
	Never close the caps at the extremities of the plumbing.
	Clean acrylic with light soap and water or with acrylic cleaner.
	Position rigid cover and protect with a vinyl cover. Do not forget to remove snow whenever required as the cover can only withstand a maximum weight of 100 pounds. It is possible to build a wooden cover to replace the Spa’s rigid cover. In this case, ensure that it will not damage the acrylic or the Spa’s wood structure and finish.
	Store all chemical products in an area that is dry, well-ventilated and heated in order to ensure that they will be effective the following year.

 

Spa Pump Troubleshooting

Warning - Please read this section first !

This section is presented for the do-it-yourselfer who needs some help either troubleshooting or repairing their own hot tub spa. Here we are assuming that if you have chosen to work on your own unit, you have a basic knowledge of electricity.

Please remember that water and electricity DO NOT MIX. If you are not capable of performing a repair yourself, please contact a local spa professional or a licensed electrician in your area.

Also realize that the wiring and equipment described herein represents the "average" spa equipment pack. Your unit may vary significantly from the components described below. If you are in doubt as to how to properly troubleshoot or repair your specific unit, please contact a local spa professional or a licensed electrician in your area.

Use any of the information contained herein AT YOUR OWN RISK. We will not be held liable for any injuries that may result from the troubleshooting or installation of any electrical components in your hot tub spa unit.

Pump Servicing - Various Problems

If you have a problem related to the wet end of the pump, this is the section to be in. Please note that these are generic instructions for the "average" pump. Your unit may vary.

1. The impellers must be matched to the motors. Do not mix them up. 1-1/2hp impellers must only be used with 1 -1/2hp "full rate" motors (those that have a service factor of 1.0) and 1 hp impellers with 1 hp "full rate motors" Mixing them up will result in improper motor amperage loads and subsequent premature failure of the motors.
   If your motor has a service factor (SF on the data plate) of other than 1.0, it is an up rated motor. In this case, match the impeller based on amp rating.
   To be sure you have matched them correctly, once the impeller is installed and the pump is running under full load, take an amperage reading while on high speed. The reading you get should be within 10% of the high speed amp rating on the data plate. If it measures higher, the motor will prematurely burn up. If it measures lower, you simply are not getting as much out of that motor as it is designed to deliver.

2. If a motor seems to run fine but is not putting out the water like it should, remove the faceplate and check the blades of the impeller. If debris has gone through the pump, some of it may be stuck in the blades which will reduce the effectiveness of the pump. Also, while the impeller is accessible, check the tightness of the impeller on the shaft. To hold the motor shaft, remove the cap at the corded of the motor such that the metal shaft is exposed. The motor shaft has a large screwdriver slot in it. Insert a screwdriver with one hand and while preventing the shaft from moving, check to see that the impeller does not turn with the other hand. WARNING: USE A RAG AT THE IMPELLER. THE IMPELLER MAY HAVE EDGES THAT ARE VERY SHARP!! You will not need a tool to hold the impeller to check tightness. Hand tight is all it needs. A stripped shaft will be rather obvious.

3. When changing an impeller, it is best to examine the motor shaft and remove any build up of rust that might have occurred during the life of the pump. If not removed, the rust may prevent proper tightening of the motor shaft resulting in rubbing, leakage, or stripping of the impeller threads inside the impeller. The impeller should glide on easily and turn onto the shaft easily until the threads bottom out with a very solid stop. If it turns hard, remove the impeller and check the motor shaft threads for debris from the previous impeller or dents that would prevent their mating with the plastic impeller threads. If damaged, correct the threads with a thin metal file or a shaft thread file designed just for this purpose. (A motor repair place may be able to help you obtain this. A thread file makes shaft repair very quick and accurate with little effort.)

4. When replacing a pump seal, wet the impeller shaft a little with water to make sliding it on easier. WARNING: DO NOT LUBRICATE WITH ANYTHING BUT WATER. The rubber doughnut on the seal will displace the water and a secure seat on the shaft will result. Other lubrication will allow the seal to spin on the shaft once the pump is turned on. This will melt the impeller shaft with the friction it creates, thus causing a new leak. Once applied, the stainless steel side with the rubber doughnut should be against the impeller blades while the carbon ring side should face the shaft end of the impeller. The rubber cup on the ceramic 1/2 of the seal can also be lubricated with water in the same fashion in order to be pressed into the housing. The white flat side of the ceramic should be facing the impeller after installation in the housing. (The side of the ceramic facing the rubber cup has a groove in it.) It is important that the seal be pressed squarely down into the housing. If crooked, a leak will often result.
   NOTE: The Waterway and Martec seal set parts have reversed location, that is, the spring portion is in the housing and the ceramic portion goes on the impeller. Still use water to easily seat the ceramic, but you may want to apply a thin film of silicone sealant (not to be confused with silicone lubricant) to the steel cup before pressing it into the housing. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET SILICONE ON THE BLACK SURFACE THAT PRESSES AGAINST THE CERAMIC RING. The contamination could cause premature failure of the seal.

5. When mounting a housing to the motor, be sure to center the motor shaft inside the ceramic. Tighten the motor bolts carefully and once all are tight, check once more to make sure the shaft is centered. If too close to the ceramic, the impeller will be more difficult to mount and will often rub enough to cause damage to the impeller and/or motor. It may even rub enough to prevent the motor from running at all. As a "rule of thumb’, always check the motor shaft for free movement after applying the impeller to the shaft and after assembling the face of the pump.

6. Be sure to re-install the eye seal to the impeller before applying the faceplate. Without it, the pump will not move as much water, and will cavitate causing it to run noisily. Be sure to mount it with the wide side of the seal facing the pump faceplate.

Remember:

Use any of the information contained herein AT YOUR OWN RISK. We will not be held liable for any injuries that may result from the troubleshooting or installation of any electrical components in your hot tub spa unit.

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